Western Crete: 8 Car Tours, 45 Long and Short Walks (Landscapes Series)

‘Mountains rearing straight up from the sea, deep wooded gorges, ravines and valleys — and yet more glorious mountains, standing proud and acting as a magnet to the eye and the imagination — that’s Western Crete, or real Crete, as some would say. Its strong, dramatic scenery and colours create sweeping landscapes of harsh but beautiful countryside — countryside that has been the backdrop for heroic deeds, ancient civilisations and constant intrigue for thousands of years, and the home of obdurate, tough-spirited people — made so by their labours on the land and their experiences. ‘Getting to know Western Crete takes time; the number of people who explore beyond the obvious is slowly growing. We hope we will lead you straight to the heart of the matter with this book, whether you are a first- or second-time visitor unsure about how best to get to know the island or, indeed, if you are someone who doesn’t need convincing but would like a reliable, thorough and different guide. We encourage you to explore to the full. We won’t need to inspire you; one look at Western Crete will do that.’ INDEX Preface 5 Acknowledgements; Background reading 6 Getting about 7 Plans of Hania and Rethimnon 8-9 Picnicking 10 Picnic suggestions 11 A country code for walkers and motorists 13 Touring 14 Some points worth noting 15 1 THE FAR WEST 16 Hania • (Kastelli-Kissamos) • (Polirinia) • Vathi • Moni • Chrisoskalitisas • (Elafonisi) • Elos • Topolia • Hania 2 PALEOHORA AND SOUTH COAST BEACHES 20 Hania • Tavronitis • Voukolies • Kandanos • Paleohora • Kandanos • (Sougia) • Hania 3 COUNTRYSIDE, COASTAL BACKWATER AND HIGH CRETAN PASTURELAND 22 Hania • Nea Roumata • Agia Irini • Epanohori • Sougia • Omalos • Lakki • Fournes • Hania 4 THE AKROTIRI PENINSULA 25 Hania • Kounoupidiana • Stavros • Agia Triada • Moni Gouverneto • (Souda Bay Cemetery) • Hania 5 THE FOOTHILLS OF THE LEVKA ORI 27 Hania • Aptera • Katohori • Kambi • Mournies • Hania 6 A SLICE OF CRETE 28 Hania • Vrises • Askyfou • Hora Sfakion • Frangokastello • Selia • Asomatos • Moni Preveli • Rethimnon • Episkopi • Georgioupoli • Hania 7 CRETAN TREASURES 33 Hania • (Rethimnon) • Armeni • Spili • Agia Galini • Festos • Agia Triada • Hania 8 THE AMARI VALLEY 35 Hania • Rethimnon • Apostoli • Thronos • Fourfouras • Agios Ioannis • Gerakari • Rethimnon • Hania Walking (see explanation of symbols on page 38) 37 Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 38 Things that bite or sting 39 What to take 40 Weather 41 Where to stay 41 Walkers’ checklist 41 Greek for walkers 42 Organisation of the walks 44 THE WALKS 1 Circuit via Agia 45 2 Kotsifou Gorge 48 The Diktamos Gorge: from Katohori to Stilos or Nio Horio) 50 4 Kambi • Volika refuge • Kambi 52 5 Georgioupoli circuit 56 6 Lake Kournas circuit 59 7 The Prassanos Gorge 62 8 Rethimnon • Chromonastiri • Myli 66 9 Myli Gorge 69 10 Gouverneto and Katholikou 71 11 Rodopos • Agios Ioannis Gionis • Rodopos 72 12 A circuit from Kolimbari via Moni Gonia 76 13 From Sirikari to Polirinia 78 14 Katsomatados • Mouri • Voulgaro 80 15 Sasalos • Katsomatados • Topolia 84 16 The Agia Irini Gorge 86 17 Sougia • Lisos • Paleohora 88 18 From Paleohora (Krios Beach) to Elafonisi 90 19 Xiloskala • Linoseli Col • Gingilos • Xiloskala 92 20 A high mountain circuit from Kallergi 95 21 The Samaria Gorge 99 22 From Agia Roumeli to Loutro 102 23 Loutro and the Aradhena Gorge 104 24 From Loutro to Hora Sfakion 111 25 The Imbros Gorge • Komitades • Hora Sfakion 112 26 Kares (Askyfou) • Asfendos • Agios Nektarios 115 27 Circuit via Moni Preveli 118 28 Ano Meros • Tripiti • Ano Meros 122 29 Circuit from Mixorouma via Frati 125 30 The Kamares Cave 128 31 Eleftherna 130 Bus timetables 133 Index (of geographical names) 135 Fold-out touring maps inside back cover of Western and Eastern Crete Pages 136 Publication Date 2016 Publisher Sunflower Books ISBN 9781856914901 Binding Paperback Author Jonnie Godfrey